Homemade Grappa

Grappa has a history steeped in tradition and adventure.
We can picture our grandparents, with a mischievous smile, sipping their homemade Grappa on cold winter evenings, recounting stories of times gone by while the fire crackled in the fireplace. It was a Grappa that warmed both body and spirit. 

Home distillation was common until the mid-20th century, when homemade Grappa was an integral part of household economy.
In line with the rural saying “nothing is wasted, everything is reused”, even the leftovers of winemaking – the pomace – could (and had to…) be reused. 

Around the mid-19th century, itinerant distillation spread: mobile stills on wheels moved from farm to farm, distilling pomace on site. 

Until World War I, each producer declared their distillate “by the demijohn”, and taxation was based on the amount declared in good faith. As consumption and production increased, the State introduced stricter controls: ingenious fiscal meters were created to measure every liter of distillate before it flowed into tanks sealed by the Finance Office. 

Since then, Grappa must be produced exclusively with fixed equipment, equipped with fiscal meters, under State control, which ensures tax compliance while also analyzing the Grappa placed on the market, verifying its analytical and sanitary requirements for the protection of consumers. 

Homemade production survives only in our collective memory but is, in fact, a disappearing phenomenon, also due to the reduced availability of raw material. With the rise of cooperative wineries, vineyard owners prefer to deliver their grapes directly to the winery, making pomace harder to obtain. 

From the 2000s onwards, the “Do It Yourself” (DIY) movement gained traction, with the appearance of amateur fermenter-stills. This trend began with homebrewing beer (which later gave rise to microbreweries) and extended to infusions and spirits, particularly gin.
 However, this practice comes with fiscal and sanitary issues. 

As we have seen, the law subjects Grappa production to a strict regime of excise duties and quality controls, and therefore prohibits clandestine production. Indeed, Legislative Decree No. 504 of October 26, 1995, states: 

This rule punishes clandestine production wherever it takes place, regardless of whether it is for commercial or private purposes. The penalties are severe: seizure of bottles, imprisonment, fines up to ten times the amount of excise duties evaded… a high price to pay for a sip of homemade adventure. 

Moreover, home distillation carries safety risks due to possible still explosions and does not guarantee that the final product is safe for consumption. Numerous news reports document the consequences of non-professional distillation. 

To obtain good Grappa, it is essential to distinguish the “heart” – the part rich in aromas and flavors – from the “heads” and “tails”, which must be carefully monitored as they may contain methanol and higher alcohols, harmful beyond certain limits. A Master Distiller knows exactly how to make these distinctions. 

Every batch of Grappa produced is also analyzed by the laboratory of the Italian Customs and Monopolies Agency (ADM) before being sold. Only after chemical and documentary analysis ensures the safety of the product does the Agency authorize its release: only then can this noble spirit proudly bear the name Grappa, ready to be enjoyed in all its authenticity and purity. 

In an era where nostalgia for the past is growing stronger, we should not lose sight of the precious legacy left by our grandparents: the deep and sincere bond between a territory and its fruits, of which grappa is a proud example.
 
However, as we immerse ourselves in memories of crackling fires and stories told, it is also important to understand that the world has changed and there are risks associated with home production. 
Preserving tradition does not mean ignoring the need for knowledge and safety in the production of spirits: we must embrace the wisdom of Master Grappaioli and the vigilance of institutions, because only in this way can we ensure that grappa continues to be an authentic and safe pleasure to enjoy, while preserving our connection to our roots and the authenticity of our national drink.